Cooking with Koko

Koko (full name Kokomo Magee Willis) is the sous chef at The House Where the Black Cat Lives

Of all my cats he is the only one who shares my penchant for all things culinary. He's like the rat in Ratatouille. Except he's a cat.

On Saturday mornings, he likes nothing better than curling up next to me on the sofa, head in my lap, all four paws touching me, and easing into the weekend watching Food Network. Looking back on it, I should have named him Emeril.

Wherever he is, whatever he is doing, at the sound of kitchen cabinets opening, he comes skidding into the kitchen. He knows the fun is about to commence.

I don't approve of cats being on the kitchen counter during meal preparation. Or anytime for that matter but try enforcing that one when they're there all day and you're not. But dinner wouldn't be dinner without Koko perched on the island, neck stretched, eyes agog, perpetually engaged.

Koko has a particular fondness for dishes involving dairy products -- omelets, gratins and cream sauces rank among his favorites. After writing my post about eating aligot in Paris a few weeks ago, I had a craving for it. I had a hunch that with all those dairy products, Koko also would approve. I was right.

The recipe is simple enough. But there aren't many places -- make that any places -- that carry creme fraiche and artisanal cheeses in the 'burg. So I've had to adapt the recipe using a mixture of sour cream and heavy cream for the cream fraiche and subbing out the best cheddar I can find for the traditional cantal. Still it works. It reminds me a lot of a cheesy potato recipe my mom always made. Any time I can combine two loves, French cooking and my mama's cooking, it's a good thing.

I'm heading out to the Washington, DC, area for a work-related conference next week. While there, I'm also going to have a chance to hang with my sister, who lives in the area. Unlike the 'burg, the District and its environs are full of gourmet food markets and artisanal cheese shops. I'm thinking I'll be able to score the real ingredients there, and that I'll be whipping up authentic aligot for the family by this time next week.

Yummy. I can't wait. Neither can Koko. I see him in the corner trying to stow away in my suitcase.

Aligot

2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cubed (plain russet potatoes are fine)
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
6 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 - 2 cups crème fraiche (substitute equal parts sour cream and heavy cream)
1 clove garlic, crushed but kept intact
3 cups grated tomme fraiche de cantal cheese (substitute good-quality white cheddar or Gruyere)

Boil the potatoes for about 20 minutes, until they turn tender and drain them. Mash them with a potato masher and vigorously mix in the salt, pepper, and butter for about 2 to 3 minutes, until the potatoes fluff up a bit. Set them aside in the pan for a moment.

Slice the garlic and saute lightly in a dab of butter to infuse it. Then In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the crème fraiche and garlic to just steaming. Remove the garlic and pour the steaming crème fraiche into the mashed potatoes and transfer the pan of potatoes to the stove top over low heat. Using a sturdy wooden spoon, beat the crème fraiche into potatoes.

Raise the heat to medium and beat in the cheese, 1/2 cup at a time. Continue beating the mixture over the heat until it forms a smooth, velvety texture with ribbons of cheese. Pour onto warm plates and serve immediately.